Ten Essentials

Ever since I was a youngster the ten essentials had been ingrained into me. From before graduating from the National Outdoor Leadership School  to working at REI to backpacking on my own as an adult I have always followed the list of the ten essentials. Knowing this list is the basis for everything I pack in my 72 Hour Bag and my backpack when going out on an excursion. Here is the classic list created by the Mountaineers back in the '60s. 

Classic Ten Essentials

1. Map
2. Compass
3. Sunglasses and sunscreen
4. Extra clothing
5. Headlamp/flashlight
6. First-aid supplies
7. Firestarter
8. Matches
9. Knife
10. Extra food

Since the '60s this list was pretty much the staple for planning a trip, but things have evolved from the days when Yvon Chouinard was doing summit ascents. So REI came up with a more updated list to reflect newer technology and modern methods of hiking. As recent as the mid 1990's you wouldn't go backpacking with a pack weighing less than 50 lbs and wearing leather hiking boots. Today, Ultralight backpacking and Fast Packing are very popular. With a fully packed pack as light as 12 lbs and people wearing trail running shoes we are able to reach out further into wilderness areas and cover more distance. Because of this here is an updated 10 Essentials list from REI which covers needs in a slightly more philosophical way- classifying essentials as systems, not items. Notice number three, Insulation, instead of Extra Clothing. Only you know what you are going to be doing and it is up to you to be responsible and figure out what level of insulation or gear you'll need. Each System has redundancy which is very important.

List found on the REI website:

Updated Ten Essential "Systems"

1. Navigation (map, compass, GPS) 
2. Sun protection (hat, loose shirt, sunglasses and sunscreen) 
3. Insulation (extra clothing, layers and weather gear) 
4. Illumination (headlamp/flashlight/extra batteries) 
5. First-aid supplies Adventure Medical Kits Weekender Medical Kit
6. Fire (waterproof matches/lighter/candles) Light My Fire Swedish FireSteel 2.0 Scout
7. Repair kit and tools for stove, duct tape, multi tool
8. Nutrition (extra days worth of food)
9. Hydration (extra water bottle, filter, iodine tabs) 
10. Emergency shelter (tent, tarp, bivy, emergency blanket) Adventure Medical Kits Thermal Bivvy SOL

Here's the thing with everything I write about. There are the rules and knowing the rules are paramount for survival. But only you can bend, break and rewrite the rules for your individual needs. Most accidents and tragedies don't happen because of one major event, they happen from a series of small blunders - "death from 1,000 paper cuts", so know full well that these ten essentials can prevent that, tread carefully when bending these rules.

To Build A Fire

Fire

It takes three components to make a fire, oxygen, heat & fuel. Below is what's known as the fire triangle. If you take one side of the triangle away, the fire will go out. What I want to tell you about today is the bottom of the triangle; fuel. Getting a fire going in adverse conditions can be a daunting task. You need to feed a fire like a baby. You have to give it small bits at first, then as it grows you can add larger pieces of fuel to the fire. 
 

If you were to take a match and try to light a log 8" in diameter the match would burn out and it probably wouldn't even make a black mark on the log. Reason being there isn't enough surface area for ignition. The key is to get the most combustible material with the most amount of surface area which can catch on fire. By this I mean an example like the picture below, which is what is called a feather stick:

The way to make a feather stick is to begin with a dry stick then whittle thin strips towards one end leaving them attached, this gives a lot of surface area which is easily combustible. If you had tried to light the stick on its own it probably would not have caught on fire. But with it treated in this manner it will easily catch. Making a fire can be hard work, if you've ever tried to make a fire with a bow drill in wet weather you know what I mean. If you haven't then take my word for it, this is not a skill you want to try to perfect when you're cold and wet. Knowing where to find tinder and being able to create a fire quickly is of utmost importance.

Natural found objects:

When you're out in the wilderness you need to be aware of what is around you and begin to think about making a fire ahead of time. If you know it's getting near sunset and you walk past object which will be able to be used as tinder gather them up. The 30 seconds it takes to pick up some fuel could be hours saved shivering later on. Remember, the most important part of getting home is maintaining 98.6 and your fire will do that.


Pine cones
Pine needles
Pine Bark
Dry leaves
Grasses
Birch Bark
Cat Tails
Birds Nests
Animal Dung
Saw Dust
Fur

Home Made stuff:

Sometimes it's good to pre make some tinder and stow it away in your 72 Hour Bag. Cotton balls are a good one because they have many uses other than just tinder. You can use a lip balm like gasoline then you have two items which have alternate uses, but when put together make a good tinder. Just make sure your lip balm is petroleum based, this is why vaseline works, because at its root it's just oil. I love the lint in a toilet paper roll trick. You make tons of this stuff just by existing, the lint takes the spark really well and you can hold the toilet paper roll to gently blow on the lint inside. It makes a great little wind tunnel, then when it catches enough the holder becomes your next larger object to be fuel. Just make one of these, cut it in half so you have two and keep it in a ziplock baggie.

Lint in a toilet paper roll
Cotton balls
Objects soaked in Vaseline (Cotton Balls, cloth, etc.)
Cardboard or Paper
Rope or Twine
Gauze
Char Cloth
Tobacco (Smoking not chewing)
Shaved pieces of tire or rubber
Tampons
Condoms
Lip Balm

Store Bought:

I have bought tinder from stores and here are a few types. The first one is the most amazing stuff. It burns at 1300 degrees for 10-12 minutes (enough time to boil 2 cups of water), has a flash point of 140 degrees, is smokeless and odorless, it's wind resistant, burns wet and is exothermic... WTF? What that means is that it burns from the outside in, so you can literally pick it up and put it out using your hand. Why would you want to do this? Well it was designed for military pilots who may be shot down behind enemy lines. If they felt their position is compromised they can grab the cube put it out, stuff it in their pocket without it being hot and start a fire later when it's safe. It's available at fast-fire.com

A slightly different twist is the Wise Fire brought to you by the same people who make the food which has a shelf life of 25 years and you guessed it this natural tinder has a shelf life of 25 years also which may appeal to the Prepper in you. It's easy to light, burns in wind, rain, sleet or snow. Burns “green” - Clean alternative with no harmful chemicals, WiseFires’s leftover ash is a natural fertilizer-it nourishes the earth. Nonvolatile-no risk for unexpected fires or flare-ups. Optimal fire starter that lights the first time. 

The two above need to be ordered on line, but the ones below are available at your local sporting goods store. I've used the tinder on the left which works pretty well, it's pretty much a cotton material with a thick coating of a petroleum based wax. The Fire Paste is used by a lot of FX guys when starting fire. I haven't used it because the tube always seems too big and bulky to carry in a 72 Hour Bag but you could always use rope or twine and soak it with the fire paste then carry the small sections to use as tinder. Being inventive is a necessity when it comes to adding things to your bag - you have to know what will work for you.

Remember, when you gain ignition you must feed the tinder bundle with oxygen by blowing or fanning the flame gently and as it grows you can begin to add fuel and more oxygen. If you add one or the other too soon you will loose your flame. It's a delicate balance and you need to take it slowly.

Tornado

Reading about the tornados in Oklahoma I wanted to write a quick entry on some things which struck me in relation to how we might have to deal with a disaster in Souther California.

Many said "it happened so fast", it was only about 15 minutes between the formation of the storm and the total devastation which hit the town. FIFTEEN MINUTES. Ask yourself, how much warning do you get when an earthquake hits? We do not have any warning, not saying one disaster is worse than another, just saying emergency plans must be thought of AHEAD of time.

Make sure you have records and pictures of valuables backed up on to a thumb drive in a safe location separate from your house. Have your emergency medical kit ready, Emergency rooms will be swamped and Murphy's Law states everyone elses injury will be more severe than yours so you need to be able to address a variety of medical conditions.

Knowing where your kit is and what items are in it may be the difference between life and death when having to wait the hours and potentially days before first responders are able to make it to your neighborhood and house. I write this blog specifically, but not limited to my friends and colleagues in the film business in Southern California. We work long hours with long commutes and are often away from our houses for 18 hours a day. In the event of a disaster do your loved ones know where the emergency supplies are? Do they know the basic mechanics of your house hold? Know how to shut off the gas in case the earthquake valve doesn't work? Can they set up a kitchen and shelter outside of your house if the Big One has hit?

The title of this blog is 72 Hour Bag, I try to write about the items to get you home if your vehicle has become disabled, but it's really trying to open the discussion about total disaster preparedness, at home and on the road.

We've been lucky for a LONG time, there hasn't been any major events in Southern California for a long time but it will happen - and you need to be prepared.

To Dream, Perchance to Sleep

Sleep Systems

Sleeping bags

When having to spend a night outdoors whether it be during a back packing trip or during an emergency it is of utmost importance to keep the bodies core temperature at 98.6. Remember the golden rule: 3 Minutes without air, 3 hours without shelter, 3 days without water and 3 weeks without food. Next to oxygen, shelter is a priority. As soon as your core temperature dips below 98.6 the clock begins to tick and it becomes an equation of physiology versus time, but it is an equation and there's nothing you can do to stop the equation other than getting your core temp back to normal. The best way to prevent this is to not have your core be compromised in the first place. The simplest way is to have a warm bed to wrap yourself in. There are a number of sleep systems you can choose from and I'll highlight several.

Sleeping bags can be made into two separate categories, Down and Synthetic. In the two categories there are a couple shapes you can get. There are Mummy, Rectangular and Semi Rectangular which is somewhat new to the market place.  The Mummy bag will most likely keep you warmest because it has the tightest fit and has a hood with a drawstring which can be cinched tightly over your head to the point where only your mouth and nose are exposed to the elements. Some people with claustrophobia issues do not like mummy bags but I strongly recommend a mummy bag because you can alway sleep with the bag in it's most open configuration and if you get cold make it tighter, but with a rectangular bag you only have one option. The semi rectangular bag solves some of the issues by making a roomier bag around the shoulders and hips but still have a hooded section. 

Here's what the shapes look like:

Rectangular

 Mummy

 Semi Rectangular

Synthetic bags are inexpensive, heavy and don't pack down as small as down, but when they get wet they'll still keep you warm.

Down bags are lighter, warmer, more expensive and last longer but they loose their insulating value when they become wet. 

The newest type of sleep system on the market are the ultralight Quilts. The theory is this: when sleeping the material on the bottom of the bag compresses so much that it becomes useless, so if you are trying to be an ultralight hiker why carry weight which doesn't do you any good. Strip away the bottom of the bag and use your sleeping pad as your insulator. I have not slept in one of these bags but I can tell you that the slightest draft wakes me up so I'm not sure I'd want to sacrifice the extra 4-6 ounces the bottom of my bag costs me. None the less this is a viable option for those who want the smallest lightest sleep system. Just know you may be risking the 98.6 rule.

Sleeping pads

The greatest heat loss is between your body and the ground. You need a layer which will stop the sucking of your body heat into the Earth. When the sun goes down the Earth becomes a refrigerator and it wants to steal every BTU of energy your body has, to counteract this there are several choices you can make.

The inflatable mattress is a great way to not only create an insulating layer, but add a little comfort. I like the old school Thermarest. I think I have version one, it's at least 20 years old and it's still functioning perfectly. It's rectangular weighs a lot and is very comfy.

For a while I tried to use a lighter weight Thermarest pad but in the end I found it too thin, not as comfortable and it slid around way more than my old school pad. I had bought one that only went down to my hips and I became too cold on my legs during the night so I went back to my full sized pad and chose to hump the extra 4 ounces.

TIP: To prevent sliding around on your pad in the middle of the night use silicone on your sleeping pad to create friction strips.

 Beyond the smaller Theremarest is a skeleton pad which is supposed to only give you support in the areas you really need it, head, shoulders and hips. The open areas are supposed to create thermal pockets to generate warm air... I have my doubts about this type of sleeping pad. A bad nights sleep is simply not worth the savings in weight. Having said this there's plenty of through hikers doing the PCT who would argue that this savings of weight is way more important.

Another style I have used is the Closed Cel Foam pad below is an accordion style egg crate mattress. It is a very lightweight low tech way of creating warmth and comfort. The egg crate gaps create pockets where air is trapped and become warm. The down side is it's a little bulky and you usually have to strap them onto the back of your pack. When doing extreme hikes the pad on the outside of your pack is usually the first casualty due to branches and sticks ripping it apart. 

Closed cel foam pads are also available in a simpler and cheaper version, basically a thicker Yoga mat:

Chairs are also a good sleeping pad, simply they're just a sleeping pad with two buckles which allow them to be affixed to a 90 degree orientation. Of course now knowing this, all you have to do is take your sleeping pad and wrap either a length of cordage or a piece of webbing around your back and under your legs to create the same thing.

Hammocks are a pretty cool way of having a lightweight shelter but there are a few factors you have to keep in mind. One, you need two objects to suspend the hammock from. Two, even though you are off the ground you are exposed to the elements and it can get cold so a modified sleeping pad may be required. Three, if you are a stomach sleeper the hammock may be uncomfortable. Four, by the time you add up the hammock, the bug net and the tarp the weight comes out to almost double what my tent weighs. With this in mind the hammock packs way smaller in a backpack and if you have a poncho then you don't need a tarp like the one below. If you have a head net for bugs then you don't need a full bug net for the entire hammock so you can save weight if you're truly going for a survival style hammock.

I love the design of the Jack's R Better hammock, they suspend the entire hammock from the top allowing a person to sleep in any way they want. It's also a very stable platform.

Here's an example of a modified sleeping pad for a hammock in cold weather.

This is the Jack's R Better solution for cold weather in a hammock, put the down on the outside of the hammock creating a very big thermal break between you and the elements... Obviously there could be issues in wet weather. I don't know of a workaround to this problem because it seems even with a tarp if there's a little bit of wind the spray could get the down comforter wet.

Now, having said all this what is best for your 72 Hour Bag? Well there's one more option I'd like to give you. SOL Provides a variety of emergency sleeping products like the Emergency Blanket pictured below which sells for about $4.95 at REI:

Moving up on the comfort scale is the Emergency Bivy which is basically a sleeping bag without any insulation other than the mylar coating on the inside designed to reflect your body heat back in to you. It sells for $16.95 at REI.

The next step is the Thermal Bivy which costs $29.95 at REI and has four layers to trap your bodies heat. It claims to reflect 80% of your body heat back in to you. It claims to be so warm there's a vent in the foot box to prevent you from getting too hot.

Lastly, the grand daddy of all the emergency bivy's sold by SOL is the Escape Bivy for $50 at REI. The bivy's above can create moisture in the bag from you perspiring but this last on is Breathable allowing moisture out and still able to keep the heat in. This is the one I carry in my 72 Hour Bag. I feel it's the perfect balance between weight/size, money and warmth. 

I don't pack a thermal pad in my 72 Hour Bag, because I don't want to take up that amount of space in a bag which needs to be as small and efficient as possible. But I know what needs to be accomplished in the field to achieve the same thing. I carry an edged tool and one of it's purposes is to cut branches and leaves to get my body off the ground. Knowing what's you need to do and having the concept in mind will allow you to improvise when the time is needed. Knowing where to cut back and save weight is also a valuable factor in preparedness,

On the cheap

When building a 72 Hour Bag I'm the first to admit that you don't want to spend a ton of money on gear you may possible never use. So the question becomes how can you save money on repurposed items which will function in times of need but aren't going to break the bank. There's a couple little tricks I've picked up along the way I thought I'd pass along.

The first is a way to create a water resistant stuff sack for virtually no money. Using a FedEx tyvek envelope.

 The Tyvek material is very strong and weather resistant. After you make your stuff sack it will not be water proof, but it is water resistant.  Here's how I do it:
1. Fold over a width appropriate for the type of cordage you'll use for your drawstring plus enough to sew closed.
2. Lay the cordage you'll use as a drawstring around the perimeter of the envelope.
3.Leaving enough of a gap for the drawstring to flow freely through the folded section use double stick tape to secure the folded part of the envelope.
4. Use dental floss to sew the overlapped bag through the double stick tape.
5. Pull the bag inside out and cut a small gap for the drawstring to fall to the outside of the bag.
6. Put a toggle on the drawstring.


Here's what your finished bag should look like:

Going a little further with Tyvek material - you can make a bivy shelter. There are plans on the internet for very simple bivy's like the one below:

When constructing a Bivy like this use 2" carpet tape instead of normal double stick like the stuff sack. Another good tip is to wash the fabric first in your laundry washing machine, it'll soften the Tyvek up a little and make it less noisy when you sleep in it.  2" Velcro makes a good closure for you to get in and out of.  You can find how to videos on YouTube and can adapt the basics to any design you might like to create. Small tent poles can be added to give your face a little room. The point of the bivy though is to be light weight and protect your sleep system from damage and the elements... not necessarily for comfort.

Here's an example of a little more complicated design. The ones below are available for sale at http://www.milesgear.com/DoubleUberBivy.html but I've seen the plans for this on the web, so if you're crafty and want to save money - which is what this post is about you can fabricate your own. 

Another great way to save money is to use a washed out Gatorade bottle as your 72 Hour Bag water bottle. It's about $2 versus $10-15 for a Nalgene water bottle. The advantage to using a Gatorade bottle aside from price is that it has a wide mouth and is easily fillable. Both the large and the small have adequate necks which allow a piece of cordage to attach to if you need to hang the bottle on the outside of your pack. 

I'm always looking for ways to save money and weight because buying top of the line equipment for your 72 Hour Bag is foolish, but it's a thin line between cheap and dysfunctional. Know what gear you can cut back on and what you can't. If you don't have a lot of experience hiking or jerry rigging things then seek help because if you cut the wrong corner it could be your last corner.

Every Day Carry

EDC

With your 72 Hour Bag in your car how do you get from work to your car safely in an emergency? The items you carry on your person every day could be of vital importance. I think of my 72 Hour Bag as what I need to survive with a pretty good level of comfort. There's food, water and shelter for three days. They may be tough days, but I've survived on less. Your EDC is what you need to get you to that 72 Hour Bag. In a worst case scenario your EDC should be able to sustain you for that journey home if your 72 Hour Bag were inaccessible (say in a collapsed parking structure). The journey home with just your EDC may be tougher, but it should none the less provide all the same survival tools, just not at the level of comfort your 72 Hour Bag would provide.


In my backpack I carry to set every day I have an EDC pouch I carry with me every where I go. I found this condor pouch and love it. It holds a good amount of gear and fits nicely in my leg pocket.  The inside has a couple of great dividers and zips completely open making it easy to pack and access gear.

The Condor Tactical Gear Pocket, is available at LA Police Gear for $10.99. It's on closeout so act quickly. In this pouch I keep a ton of gear and the pouch fits neatly in the leg pocket of my cargo pants. I have in this pouch the following: pen, 9volt light & battery with electrical tape wrapped around it, celox, wire saw, cotton balls soaked in vasoline, strike any where matches, Leather Man Squirt P4, super glue, band aids, button compass, rescue whistle, unlubricated condom, tampon, steri strips, 4-0 & 2-0 nylon non absorbable sutures, back up meds. 

You may be wondering about the tampon and the condom, all I can tell you is there are many uses for each other than their immediate given roles. I will do a post on each and their benefits later. 

In addition to this pouch I carry many things on my person on a daily basis. I have attached to my key chain a Light My Fire Scout Swedish Firesteel. It's set up so the key chain comes apart and the striker and steel can be used easily. I have black electrical tape wrapped around the striker because there's a sharp edge on one side and I'm always using E Tape to fix things. I also have it set up so when I have to leave my car with a valet or give the keys to someone at crew parking I always have the steel. Using my knife or a piece of metal to create a spark on the steel is much more possible than the later.

A tool I carry every day every where is a folding knife. There are several I rotate depending on where and what we are filming or if I'm going out to dinner. I will post about the types of knives and what I recommend later but for now any edged folding knife is better in your pocket than none. Remember a dull knife is far more dangerous than a sharp one, so please do your self a favor and maintain this tool in your pocket. Quite literally your life could depend on it.

Quick Note:

I call my knife a tool and not a weapon because it is that... A tool. Do not confuse yourself and think you're going to be some Kung Fu Master and take a bad guy down with the knife you carry in your pocket.
Chances are one of two things will happen:
One, the bad guy will take it out of your hands and stab you with it or
Two: even if you "win" a knife fight that usually means you'll bleed out after your opponent does.
It's not a pleasant thought going into an altercation thinking that a 'win' is dying last. When I was training, the more I learned about knives and knife defense I would always say the first stab wound you should receive when someone pulls a knife on you is in your ass because you were running away. If you have any questions feel free to contact me, but I can not stress enough that even if you are trained, knives are far deadlier than guns, just YouTube any video on what happens to cops when they're confronted with a bad guy with a knife. It never ends well.

I also carry a shemaugh in my EDC bag. I have several and stow them away where I can easily grab them. There are so many uses for these that it justifies a post on this specific topic at a later date. They are the cousin of a bandana but are at least twice as large as a bandana so they can be used as an additional layer like a shawl or around your head and neck like a baclava or like how the Operator is using it below. Early mornings when you're standing on set and the wind is blowing as the sun is coming up this really comes in handy to keep you warm.

Something we all carry to set each day is an additional layer, I've found the Patagonia Nano Puff to work really well. Not only is it a very warm layer it will stuff inside it's own pocket into a neat little square and then can be used as a pillow. I take on my backpacking trips for this reason. There are two versions, the nano puff, and the down sweater. I have both and I think they are equally as warm. I use the synthetic nano puff at work because even if it gets wet I don't have to worry, it'll still keep me warm.  Below you can see an approximate size compared to a pair of gloves when its packed inside its own pocket.

Because I am a HAM radio operator I carry in my bag my Kenwood TH-F6 handheld tri band 5 watt radio. I have it set up to use on set hand held or plug into my car with a very good antenna which extends its range. I am a member of the PAPA system of repeaters which covers from Tijuana to Santa Barbara and Los Angeles to Arizona. It's a great way to stay on top of things if communications are down.

Flashlight: In addition to the 9 volt LED flashlight I carry in my Condor pouch I make sure I carry a brighter flashlight. I have chosen the Surefire E2D LED Defender. I love this flashlight because it has two settings for brightness and uses CR123 Lithium batteries which last a very long time both in operation and in terms of shelf life. This flashlight is only about 4-5" inches long ans is MUCH brighter than any other flashlight 2-3 times it's size at 200 lumens. I keep it handy so when I'm going back to my car in a dark crew parking area I pull it out and can light an incredible distance.

You'll have to evaluate what items are necessary for you to carry on a daily basis. Your EDC is not your 72 Hour Bag, you're not going to want to hump that back and forth to set every day from your car at crew parking so your EDC should only contain the things you need to get you to your 72 Hour Bag. In the worst case scenario it should be able to sustain you at a base level and still get you home.